
FOUE YEAES IN LIBEEIA. 



DT 632 

.W5 I s k: E T O H 

Copy 1 



r\T /?^o 



LIFE 



REY. SAMUEL WILLIAMS. 



WITH REMARKS 



MISSIONS, MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES 
OF WESTERN AFRICA. 





TOGETHER WITH AX 

ANSWER TO NESBIT'S BOOK. 



PHILADELPHIA: 
KING & BAIRD, PRINTERS, No. 607 SANSOM STREET. 

18 5 7. 




1 



FOUR YEARS IN LIBERIA. 



s e: E T a n 



LIFE 



KEY. SAMUEL WILLIAMS. 



WITH REMARKS 



MISSIONS, MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES 
OF WESTERN AFRICA. 



TOGETHER WITH AN 

ANSWER TO NESBIT'S BOOK. 




PHILADELPHIA: 
KING & BAIRD, POINTERS, No. 607 SANSOM STREET. 

f^^.^ 18 57. 



INTRODUCTOHY. 



I have read over the following pages, (with the excep- 
tion of the Answer to Nesbit'sbook,) and I can candidly 
commend them as containing just and reliable informa- 
tion on the subjects of remark. The description of the 
Vey country and people, adjacent to Cape Mount, is 
particularly interesting ; as this is a country but little 
known, and yet is inhabited by one of the finest races of 
people on the western coast. 

Whoever purchases and reads this little work, will 
find himself repaid by its perusal. But besides this, he 
will contribute to assist a worthy man whose health has 
given way in the missionary work in Liberia, and has 
come to his native land to recruit it ; and then to return 
again to his great missionary work. I know him per- 
sonally, and believe him to be worthy of- all confidence 
and sympathy. I commend him to the kindness of the 
friends of Christian civilization in Africa, and hope they 
will buy and read his little work. It will do good. 

J. P. DURBIN, 

Cor, Sec. Mis. Soc. of the M. E, Church. 

Philadelphia^ August^ 1857. 



FOUR YEARS IN LIBERIA. 

I WAS born in York county, in the State of Pennsyl- 
vania, in the year 1813. My father, whose name I bear, 
was a laboring man ; he was respected by all who knew 
him. When I was nine years of age he moved to Harris- 
burg, Dauphin county, Pennsylvania. It was here that 
I formed my earliest associations. I was put out the 
first year of our residence to learn the business of a bar- 
ber, which business I learned with great ease, and became 
quite an expert workman in a short time. My master 
moved from the State before I had served out my time, 
and I was left to my own will at the age of fourteen. 
By the advice of my father I went to live with a Mr. H. 
Vashon, with whom I remained over a year. I then 
went to Lancaster, and remained until I thought I was 
master of my profession. I returned to Harrisburg, but 
did not remain long in my old place. I was of rather a 
roving disposition, and I went to Huntingdon, and from 
that to Pittsburg, and after remaining in that city for one 
year I returned to Harrisburg, where I remained one 
winter. I then went up the river and found my way to 
Lewisburg, where I remained for about two years. I 
married there at the early age of twenty years. I did 
not remain in this place long after I was married, but 
returned to Pittsburg, and from thence moved to Johns- 
town. When I moved to this latter place I had become 

tired of a roving life, and thought I would settle myself 

1* 



6 

for life. Johnstown at this time was but a small town, 
and I thought that I could make a living in it, and grow 
up with the place. In this I was not mistaken. I opened 
a shop and succeeded in business beyond my expectation. 

I had up to the time of my settling in Johnstown, never 
thought of my condition as a man, and it was not until 
the year 1838, when the people of Pennsylvania voted 
for the amended constitution, that I really felt that I had 
not my rights in common with other men. I had ever since 
I had arrived at the age of twenty-one years voted at the 
elections ; but at the election of that year, for some cause 
which I never could understand, I was not allowed to 
put ray vote into the ballot-box. This was very grievous 
to me ; and it was the more so, because this election was 
to determine whether I should vote in my native State 
again. I was dissatisfied, and was never afterwards re- 
conciled to my lot, although my course was such here, 
and had always been everywhere, that I secured the 
respect of my neighbors and townsmen. I cannot say 
that I ever was mistreated in any place. My word be- 
came my bond in business, and wherever I went I met 
with a welcome. As far as my civil rights were con- 
cerned, I knew no difference ; but my political rights 
were taken away, not by my own townsmen, but by a 
large majority of the people of the State. I, however, 
bore up against this until the Fugitive Slave Bill passed. 
I then concluded that I would find a new home some 
place in the world where the black man could be free. 

Notwithstanding all the respect that was shown me 
by the citizens, yet I felt myself oppressed. I could have 
free privilege in all the churches ; there was no negro 
pew for me in any church in the place, but I was treated 
with politeness aud respect in them all. Yet there were 



times when I was oppressed, and one of those times was 
on election day ; I felt that I was as good a man as there 
was in town, yet I dare not deposit a vote. I could talk, 
and I had my influence over a certain class of voters, (yes, 
I say it boldly that I made more than one vote on election 
dayvS,) yet I could not put in one myself. This grieved 
me, and I could not see when the thing was to be any 
better. Another source of oppression to me was, I 
would sometimes go from home. Now my popularity, 
if it may be so called, was not only in my own town, or in 
the neighboring town^s, but, whenever I would go beyond 
the circle of my acquaintances, I could see that things 
were changed, and frequently I would be sent in the 
kitchen to eat my meals when traveling. I was once 
ordered out of the first-class car to take a seat in the 
Jim Crow car. These things galled me, and after many 
years reflection on the subject, I came to the conclusion, 
if there was a free spot in all God's earth, I would seek 
that place. I made inquiries about Canada, and found 
that it was not free from this wicked prejudice. Where 
was I to go ? I had read much of Liberia, although I 
was a violent Abolitionist, and had been ever since con- 
verted to that faith by my friend Vashon. But I wanted 
a home where I could be free. I began to reflect seri- 
ously upon the subject of going to Africa, and I found 
that I could do so without infringing upon my Abolition 
principles ; and I am just as strong in the faith to-day as 
ever I was in all my life. I always believed that there 
was many good Colonizationists, yet I thought that I 
might live in Liberia and be happy. So, in the year 
1852, after having resided in Johnstown for near sixteen 
years, I concluded to visit Liberia and see it for myself, 
^nd if I found that it was or could be a country, I thought 



8 

of casting in my lot with its citizens, and help to make it. 
I therefore began to get ready at once for my voyage. 
I made up my mind in March, and expected to start in 
October. I disposed of my business to a Mr. Wilson 
Patterson, a very worthy colored man, and set about in 
good earnest to prepare. When the citizens saw that I 
was in earnest, they agreed to help me, that the expense 
should not come on me entirely ; and they were very 
liberal ; they gave me nearly two hundred dollars, which 
sum defrayed the bulk of my expenses ; and on the first of 
]^ovember I bid all my friends good-bye, and took the 
cars for Baltimore, but was delayed there for some four 
weeks in consequence of the vessel not being ready. 
On the 2tth of that month I set sail, in company with 
Mr. Charles Deputie of Hollidaysburg, as visitors to 
Liberia. We were passengers on the same vessel that 
carried Bishop Scott out to hold the Liberia Conference 
in 1853. We all were professors of the religion of Christ ; 
and more than that, were all Methodists, and not to be 
turned from our principles. More than this, I hope that 
we were all Christians I must say that I found the 
Bishop a very pleasant companion. Brother Home was 
also one of the cabin passengers, and we had a most 
delightful voyage after the sea-sickness had sul^sided. 
We had religious worship regularly all the way to Africa. 
The Bishop acted as preacher in charge, and gave out 
the Sabbath appointments ; and I was somewhat sur- 
prised the second Sabbath at sea that I was to preach 
in the afternoon. I did so ; and I believe that I gave 
satisfaction. I did the best I could, and was satisfied 
thus far with myself, yet I knew that it was a feeble effort. 
Mr. Home had preached in the morning, and he had 
given us a practical discourse ; and not only practical. 



9 

but learned, for he is a learned man. He is now the 
Principal of Monrovia Seminary, and is much beloved 
by all who know him. This voyage terminated as the 
most of voyages do, without any thing very interesting 
to relate. We came to anchor off Monrovia on the sixth 
day of January, 1853. 

I was favorably impressed with the country the first day 
that I landed. I was well treated by the citizens, and 
found them kind, and disposed to entertain strangers. I 
met two of my old acquaintance, Mr. Wm. Finley and 
Mrs. Kev. D. A. Wilson, the latter had been a resident 
of Johnstown and was now a missionary. Mr. Wil- 
son was the principal in the Alexander High School, and 
was doing a good work in the Presbyterian ranks. 

I was at church on the Sabbath following my arrival 
at Monrovia, and listened to Bishop Scott. He preached 
quite an able sermon. In the afternoon Brother Home 
preached ; the next Sabbath I preached in the afternoon. 
During the week I was much delighted in a trip up the 
St. PauPs ; I saw many improved places, and a most beau- 
tiful river with high banks, and a good soil. I remained 
at Monrovia about two weeks and then went down the 
coast as far as Cape Palmas. After remaining on the 
coast until the ITth of March, I left very well satisfied 
with what I had seen in Africa, and reported favorably 
when I got home. I will here give that report, that those 
who have not seen it may read it now. 



NOTES ON LIBERIA. 

Liberia is located on the western shore of Africa, be- 
tween the third and seventh degrees of north latitude. 
The land, in a general way, near the sea, is low and 



10 

sandy, but back ten or twelve miles in the interior it be- 
comes more elevated and the soil much better. There are 
a number of small rivers flowing into the sea within the 
confines of Liberia, the principal of which are the Grand 
Sesters, St. Paul's, St. Johns, Junk, Since, and Cape 
Mount. The St. PauPs is> fine stream : near its mouth 
it divides into two rivers — one is called Stockton Creek, 
and upon this branch stands Monrovia. The mouth is 
shallow, and large vessels cannot get over its bar, but 
small craft, of from ten to twenty tons burthen, pass over 
safely. Up this river are the settlements of Virginia, 
Upper and Lower Caldwell, and Millsburg ; all fine set- 
tlements. I visited the first three, but did not get so far 
as Millsburg. 

Monrovia has about fifteen hundred inhabitants, and is 
a beautifully located place, on a high elevation. It has 
a commanding view of the sea on two sides. I spent 
twenty-one days in the town and surrounding country, 
and think, every thing considered, it is a fine place. 

Grand Bassa County comes next. Buchanan, the 
county-seat, is situated on the left bank of the St. John's, 
and the village of Edina is on the right hand. There is 
not the same appearance of thrift here that is seen in the 
upper settlements of the St. Paul's. Bexley is a pro- 
mising settlement, about six miles up the river, and the 
citizens are getting along very well. Since county is the 
last in the Bepublic, and Greenville is its county-town. 
The people manifest quite a spirit of enterprise. Green- 
ville is situated at the mouth of the Since river, and is 
beautifully laid out, its streets running at right angles. I 
w^as up the river, and visited the settlements, with which 
I was much pleased. Lexington is the last settlement 
made. It has not been in progress more than two years, 
but the inhabitants show a spirit of industry, and have 
got quite a clearing made in the forest. I walked across 
from this place to Louisiana, and saw there another most 
beautiful settlement Every thing seemed to be in a 
thriving condition, and many of the farms were in a good 
state of cultivation here as well as in Lexington. 

My choice of all the settlements that I saw is on the 



11 

St. PauPs. The lands are principally taken up near the 
river, but there is an abundance of vacant land back from 
■ the river, which T have no doubt is as good, if not better, 
than that on the banks of the river. Prom all the in- 
formation, however, that I could get, I believe the best 
site for a new settlement is on the Junk river. There 
emigrants would have the choice of land, inasmuch as 
there is no settlement as yet made. My plan is, when we 
go to Africa, to land at Monrovia, where we will have 
the advantage of the medical advice, which is of great 
importance to all new settlers. There we could remain 
until we were acclimated, and then our men might explore 
the country, and make their locations. They might im- 
prove them, and by the time the families were in a situa- 
tion to remove, be ready to receive them. To go directly 
to the country would subject us to many inconveniences 
that we might avoid by being six or eight months in the 
town. Before commencing to farm, many of the necessa- 
ries of life would have to be obtained at the town, and 
we must learn the nature of native trade, on which we 
must depend for many things. 

The productions of Liberia are very numerous ; and if 
men, after they have got a start, will only be industrious, 
there is no danger about a living. They can raise cas- 
sada, sweet potatoes, and yams, which will answer much 
better for bread than wheat in that climate. They can 
buy rice from the natives, although this article is some- 
times very dear ; yet if emigrants are properly provided 
with articles of native trade, they can always buy at a 
fair price. Every emigrant ought to be able, before going 
out to Liberia, to procure some leaf tobacco, a box or 
two of clay pipes, a quantity of fish hooks, and a few 
pieces of blue cotton cloth ; all of which is money with 
the natives, and you can buy with these what you cannot 
get for silver or gold. 

The productions of Liberia are numerous ; yet, in my 
opinion, the articles raised for exportation should be 
confined to coffee, indigo, arrow-root, ginger, and bird- 
pepper. My advice to friends in our Pennsylvania expe- 
dition would be to confine themselves to the raising of 



12 

these five articles — and let them do so on a large scale, 
and they would soon find themselves in the possession of 
ease if not wealth, for all of these articles will command 
a ready sale in a foreign market, and they can be raised 
with comparatively little labor. Coff'ee and arrow-root 
grow best in a sandy soil ; indigo grows everywhere, but 
if care is not exercised it becomes troublesome. I am 
told that the method of preparing this weed for market 
is very simple, and a considerable income might be real- 
ized from the exportation of it alone. 

Pepper and ginger could also be made articles of profit 
to the producers of them. I am sorry to say that there 
is not as much attention paid to the growing of those 
articles as ought to be, and as soon will be. The people, 
as yet, do not know the value of them. As soon as they 
find that they can make more by a careful attention to 
their cultivation than by their present mode of trade and 
traffic, they will receive the attention they ought. 

The first want of Liberia that we will mention, is that 
of a proper mode of fencing. Common wood fences 
are found not to answer the purpose, in consequence of 
the destructive nature of the bug-a-bug This little in- 
sect is very troublesome at present. They will destroy 
any common wood fence that can be made, in the short 
space of two years The people have tried hedges, but, 
in all cases, they are found to grow too large. Stone is 
too dear for the common use. But I am in hopes that it 
will be found that, when the country becomes generally 
under a state of cultivation, this troublesome insect will, 
in a great degree, disappear. 

The next want of this country is beasts of burden. 
They have no way for transportation of goods or other 
things but by natives, and this is a very slow and ineffec- 
tual way. This difficulty will in a great degree disappear 
as fences are introduced. It is now more for the want of 
fences than any other cause that they have not horses, 
asses and oxen. All these aninials will live and thrive 
well in Liberia. During my short stay there, I saw them 
all, and they looked well. The ass is as large as that of 
any other country, but the horse is much smaller than our 



13 

American horses. It is about like what is known in this 
country as the Indian pony. The oxen, also, are very 
small. Generally, the cattle of Liberia grow to be about 
the size of our two yearlings, but I saw some larger and 
of a good medium size ; these, however, are not common. 
None of these beasts can be kept in any number, for the 
want of fences. As soon as a plan of fencing can be in- 
troduced, beasts of all useful kinds will be raised in 
abundance. 

The morals of Liberia are as good, perhaps, as those 
of any other country. A very large majority of the in- 
habitants are members of some religious body. The 
Methodist, Baptist, Presbyterian and Episcopalian are 
the religious bodies established, but the Methodists stand 
first as regards numbers. Their number is more than all 
the rest together, and I met many good, warm, old-fash- 
ioned Methodists. I was permitted to preach several 
times while in Liberia, and felt that the Lord was in our 
presence. I had the honor to preach to a number of 
distinguished persons, among whom was the J^esident 
and lady, the Vice President, and others. I must con- 
fess that I felt some fear in getting up before the great 
ones of Liberia. But the Lord was with me, and I have 
not had more liberty for years than on that occasion. 

There remains much yet to be done in Liberia. It is in 
the midst of heathenism. There are thousands who are 
yet without the knowledge of a Saviour ; and, although 
they are doing considerable for the purpose of enlight- 
ening the heathen, yet it is as a drop in the bucket to 
what is wanted. This ought to induce holy men to em- 
bark for this land. This colony now is as a candle in a 
thick fog, whose light is seen but for a step. Every man 
could and ought to be a missionary, whether employed 
by the Board of Foreign Missions or not. His example 
and his influence ought all to go to persuade the natives 
of the truth of religion. Too many of the colonists 
forget this, and only think for themselves and of money, 
instead of doing something to promote the gospel. They 
take advantage of the natives, and by so doing injure the 
cause of Christ. I trust that a large emigration soon 

2 



14 

will go to Liberia which has the cause of Christ fully at 
heart, and be induced, for the love they have for their 
Master's cause, to labor for the enlightenment of the native 
Africans. I believe that much more could be done for 
them than is now doing. 

All emigrants ought, in going to Liberia, to have 
some means, and ought not to be entirely dependent on 
the Society for their support. Although they are sup- 
ported for six months, yet this is not sufficient, as all 
may expect to be more or less sick the first six months 
after going to Africa, and in consequence of which they 
are not in a proper frame of body or mind to make any 
preparations for the future. But if they had some means 
of their own, they, at the end of the six months, will 
have something to depend upon. Each family should 
have not less than two hundred dollars, which, if laid out 
in the States in tobacco, pipes, blue cotton cloth, ifcc, 
would answer at double that amount in Africa. The 
African fever may be regarded in about the same light 
as our American fever and ague. I saw several who 
were lal?oring under its influence, and the symptoms were 
about the same. The only difference, perhaps, is that 
the African fever is not as regular in its attacks as that 
of the American : but after the emigrants are once 
through the acclimation, they usually enjoy as good 
health in Liberia as in any other place. The citizens 
look very healthy, and if prudence and caution are exer- 
cised, there is but little to fear from the fever. Out of 
all the emigrants that went out last fall — three hundred 
and seventy — only sixteen had died up to the time of my 
leaving, and four of these were very old persons, and 
seven young children ; which leaves only five that can 
properly be said to have died by the diseases of the land, 
and one of these brought it on by his own imprudence. 

The climate of Liberia is tropical, and, consequently, 
it is warm. During my stay, I kept a regular note of 
the degree of heat, and the thermometer varied only 
seven degrees ; it ranged from eighty-one degrees to 
eighty- eight degrees; eighty-one the lowest and eighty- 
eight the highest that I saw while on the coast of Africa. 



15 

But this was always in the shade ; to go into the sun 
there was a great difference. The sun in the heat of the 
day was very oppressive, and it was imprudent to be out 
from 10 A. M. to 3 P M. ; but I was out all hours of " 
the day, and in three instances walked during all these 
hours, and found no other inconvenience or effect but a 
plentiful perspiration. On one or two excursions I had 
my son with me, and he stood it manfully. That day 
we walked about six miles, which is considered in Liberia 
a good walk. On another occasion I walked five miles 
in the middle of the day, and at another time I started 
at seven o'clock in the morning, and walked until two in 
the afternoon, many miles into the interior, and all this 
produced no bad effect on me. Although it is very 
warm, yet in-doors or in the shade it is quite pleasant, 
in consequence of the delightful breeze that is constantly 
blowing. It was during the dry season that I was in 
Liberia ; but it is not to be supposed that it does not 
rain during this season of the year. It rained frequently 
during my stay in the country, and some very heavy 
showers. I was in the country seventy-one days, and I 
suppose I saw at least ten or fifteen good showers and 
one tornado. However, the tornado was after I left for 
home. I will assure any one that it was no plaything as 
it presented itself to us aboard the ship. 

The fruits of this country are not so numerous nor so 
delightful as those of our own country. They have the 
orange, lemon, lime, soursop, guava, pawpaw, mango, 
plum, pine apple, and many others of less importance. 

The fresh meats are nearly the same as we get in our 
own market, with the exception of goat meat. They 
have beef, pork, mutton, and venison of a very good quality. 
Chickens, ducks, and sometimes turkeys are brought to 
market. Fresh fish are to be had in great abundance. 
Mackerel are caught at Monrovia, and they are very 
good indeed. 

A country would be a paradise indeed if there were 
no objections to be urged against it, and I have some to 
urge against Liberia. The first I would name is the 
naked condition of the natives. They are in town in 



16 

Tast numbers, and they have nothing in the world upon 
them but a cloth around their loins. Men and women 
go dressed in nearly the same style. This custom might 
be stopped, for the colonists have all the law-making in 
their hands, and they could easily pass a law making it 
unlawful for them to come to town without a covering 
upon them. Why this is not done, for the life of me, I 
cannot see. But when once the country is filled up with 
people from the Northern States, they surely will have 
an eye to this matter. 

The next objection that I find to Liberia, is the indo- 
lence or seeming indolence of many of the colonists. 
There is not in the country as much industry as ought to 
be. Very many of the lots in the city of Monrovia are 
wholly neglected, and suffered to grow up with weeds 
and bushes, when, if they were cultivated, they would 
yield enough, almost, for the support of the families occu- 
pying them. This is to be attributed more to the kind 
of people who have settled them than to any other cause. 
They are principally emancipated slaves, who do not 
appreciate freedom in its proper light, but think that 
when once free they are at liberty to be industrious or 
otherwise, and many choose to be lazy. Now, if, in my 
opinion, the Northerners could be induced to go to 
Liberia, we would soon find quite a different state of 
things. The great majority of the present colonists are 
from the South, and have adopted southern habits, the 
state of society being more southern than any thing else. 
For instance, all love to have a servant to wait upon 
them, both gentlemen and ladies. If it is but to carry a 
lantern, or to carry a fish, it must be done by a servant. 

Another objection is, the preference given to native 
labor over that of Americans. Many of the colonists 
are in want of work to make something to enable them 
to get the comforts of life, but the natives are employed 
in preference, because they can live on twenty-five cents 
per day, while the colonists must have seventy-five cents. 
Now, this is wrong. Let all the poor Americans be 
employed by the rich, and let them by these means be 
helpers to each other, and this will advance the interests 



17 

of the country to a very great extent. It would do away 
with the necessity of all emigrants having money to start 
with. The present mode of traffic and trade I condemn; 
not that it does the individual any harm morally, but * 
because it is depriving the soil of so many tillers. To 
build up a great nation, the soil must be brought into 
active employment. It must be tilled, and its produc- 
tions thrown into market — the income of which must 
enrich the country. All settlements must have their 
traders ; but in Liberia nearly every man is a trader. If 
he is a farmer, he associates with this native trade, and 
very frequently he has to neglect the one for the other. 

Wants of emigrants going to Liberia. You are told 
not to take with you any thing for housekeeping ; that 
you can get every thing there in the shape of furniture. 
My advice, however, is to take along every thing you 
possibly can, as every thing i^ difficult to be obtained in 
Africa. Every family ought to be provided with bed- 
steads, tables, chairs ; and, in a word, every thing that 
is needed in this country you will need in Liberia, unless 
I might except feather-beds. All who have these would 
do well to sell them, and buy in their stead good hair 
mattrasses. Do not be prevailed upon to go without 
the things for housekeeping, as you will be sorry after it 
is too late. Every thing in the shape of household fur- 
niture or kitchen utensils are very high. They cost four 
times what they would in the States. You ought to be 
provided with one barrel of salt beef and one of pork. 
Take shoes enough for one year. You ought to have a 
keg of good butter, to serve until you get accustomed to 
the palm oil, after which you would rather have it. It 
would be well if each family could take a barrel of flour 
to serve them until they become accustomed to rice and 
other African productions. 

Here I must end my advice and my report of what I 
have seen. Much that is to me deeply interesting I must 
omit. It only remains for me to return my sincere 
thanks to those whose friendship has cheered me in under- 
taking a voyage fraught with anxiety and peril, but 
which has richly repaid me. I see in Liberia the ele- 

2* 



18 

ments of a great State. From her borders I behold an 
influence issuing which shall yet elevate my race in the 
future to that proud position which it once held in the 
past. Although my birth-place, and the birth -land of 
my fathers, and endeared to me as holding the bones of 
a now sainted parent, it is my wish only to remain in the 
United States until a company can be organized which 
shall go out together, taking with them a saw-mill and 
an apparatus for making iron — ore yielding, in Liberia, 
90 per cent. In a few months longer, I trust, I shall go 
to the home of my fathers, there to aid in upbuilding a 
new republic, and in founding a mighty empire. Would 
to God I could persuade my brethren everywhere to go 
with me, so that, after being aliens and exiles, like Israel 
in Egypt, for so many long years, we might at least die 
in the land of our fathers. 

Samuel Williams. 



There was quite an excitement raised after this report 
was published. I received letters from all parts of the 
State* some making inquiries, some applauding me for my 
adventures, and some abusing me for trying to deceive 
the people ; some I answered and some remains to be 
answered yet. The first week after I came home several 
called from distant towns to see me, and to make inquiry 
respecting my impressions. I gave to all what was the 
honest convictions of my mind in the matter, and told 
them that for me and my family we would go to Liberia ; 
others might do as they please. It was proposed by sev- 
eral that we should raise a joint stock company. I agreed 
to the proposal, which was the worst thing that I ever 
did in all my life. My plan was, in the first place, to go 
in copartnership with men who could each raise a little 
money and reside in Africa as merchants ; but I was per- 
suaded out of this. I thought that a saw mill would 



19 

do well in the country, (and I yet believe that one could 
do well, but it will have to be on a different plan from 
that which we took with us). There were four of us who 
were very anxious for Africa ; Chas. Deputie, Thomas 
Lilason, John H. M. Harris, and myself. We four com- 
menced to raise a company, and succeeded, as the public 
know. The Pennsylvania Colonization Society loaned 
us enough to purchase our saw mill, and we raised 
amongst the company some sixteen hundred dollars, which 
was laid out in goods, with a credit of near that much 
more We got all in readiness to go to our new home in 
Africa. The company consisted of John H. M. Harris, 
Wm. Nesbit, Thomas Lilason, Chas Deputie, Alfred 
Truman, CJjirtis G. Carr, David Kelly, Elias A. Briar, 
Wm. Thomas and myself. Briar and Thomas remained 
behind ; Briar came out the next fall. Thus equipped, 
we repaired to New York to take the vessel that was to 
sail on the 1st of November, but we were detained in New 
York until the 10th. On the afternoon of that day we 
left the pier that we had laid by and commenced our 
voyage for Liberia. Mr. Pinney accompanied us out 
into the bay, and, after he had made all necessary arrange- 
ments, he bid us good bye, wishing us a prosperous 
voyage and a happy home in Africa. We soon got 
under way. Our women suffered much from sea sick- 
ness for some three weeks, for we had very rough 
weather during all that time. After this we had a very 
pleasant trip to the coast. We found that Mr. Pinney 
had laid in an ample supply of everything that was ne- 
cessary for our comfort. We had all kinds of vegetables 
and fresh meats. I do not believe that there was ever an 
emigration that was better fitted out than we were, and 
yet, with all this, some was disposed to complain ; so that 



20 

it is impossible for one man to please everybody in a com- 
pany, even small as ours was. We enjoyed ourselves 
very much aboard ship — we had our debates and other 
amusements — and the captain seemed glad that we were 
all so happy ; his name was Miller, and a better man, I 
think, could not be found to carry emigrants than he. 
Every attention was paid to the sick, both of the cabin 
and steerage ; and frequently he would have the sick 
women brought from below and placed in the cabin, that 
they might have the more air. I was much pleased with 
him ; his officers also were very kind to us all. The first 
mate's name was Hatch, and the second's McGill ; both 
did all that they could to make us comfortable and happy, 
and happy we were. After spending forty dmys on the 
voyage we, on the night of the 18th of December, dropped 
anchor opposite the Light House on the Monrovia 
Heights, and the next morning all was bustle to get ready 
to go ashore. A' number of gentlemen called off in the 
morning to see us, as they had been looking for us for 
some days. All expressed their satisfaction at finding us 
in such good health and spirits. We all got ashore by 
three o'clock in the afternoon, and I believe that every 
one was well pleased with the town, unless it was Mr. 
Nesbit. I heard him remark, after seeing it, that it was 
rather a one horse town ; but even he forgot that it was 
a one horse town after we got our goods opened and had 
sold for some two or three days. It seemed that money 
drove all notions out of his head about either one or two 
horse towns. 

We were now in Liberia, and had to begin to take 
care of ourselves. One of the first steps, after our goods 
were opened and the families comfortable, was to look out 
a location for the saw mill, when it would come out, 



21 

as we expected it in a very short time. In this, how- 
ever, we were mistaken, as it did not get out until the 
first of April. In the meantime we had selected for its 
location a place on the Junk river, at or near Marshall, 
in the midst of a fine timber district, and supposed that 
we would have no difficulty in getting the lumber to 
market after it was sawed ; but in this we were greatly 
disappointed. We found that to get it from this place 
to Monrovia or Bassa it would cost as much as to freight 
it from the States ; and hence, we were greatly crippled 
in our plans. The erection of the mill was a very expen- 
sive operation, and this, in connection with our not get- 
ting the lumber to market, were the principal causes of 
our failure. We had expended a large amount of our 
means in the erection of the mill that should have been 
remitted to our creditors in the States, and expected to 
replace it when the mill would get into operation ; but 
here we failed, because there was no means of transpor- 
tation but by way of the river and in canoes, and then it 
had to be carried four miles, across the summit or divid- 
ing ridge that divided the Junk waters from those of 
Monrovia, which was a very slow and expensive opera- 
tion. Our lumber accumulated on our hands at the mill, 
until a considerable quantity spoiled during the rainy 
season. Our stock of goods was getting low and we 
strained every nerve to remit to our merchants in Philadel- 
phia what was due, that we might get another stock. We 
succeeded in raising all the money that we owed our dry 
goods merchant, which was a considerable bill, and wrote 
to him our circumstances, and hoped in a short time to 
receive a new lot of goods, which, if we had, we would 
have recovered from our embarrassed circumstances. But 
instead of the goods we received a letter that the firm had 



22 

failed shortly after we had remitted. This at once struck 
terror among all our men. Now began difficulty for 
me. Some of the company began to complain against 
me for bringing them to Africa, and I was abused ; they 
said I had made wrong statements to them concerning this 
country. But strange to say, that while we were in flour- 
ishing circumstances, I had told all truth, and was one of 
the best of men. At one of the meetings of the com- 
pany they gave me a vote of thanks, and could scarcely 
find language to express their delight at what I had done 
for them ; but when circumstances changed I was the sole 
cause of all their misfortunes. These things grieved me 
much, to think that those who I had looked upon as my 
best friends should now try and attach all the blame to 
me for our misfortune, when the whole thing was a train 
of circumstances out of my power to control. It was 
unfortunate in the first place that we brought the saw 
mill to the country ; but I did not do so, nor was it my 
advice. My plan was to associate myself with two of the 
present members and put our means together and come 
as merchants ; but one of these men was the most 
anxious that we should bring the mill. It was equally 
unfortunate that it was located on the Junk ; but I did 
not do this, it was done by the committee ; to be sure I 
was one of that committee, and I was in favor of putting 
it on the Junk ; but I was but one man, and the commit- 
tee consisted of five, and every man was in favor of it 
being just where it was put. But as soon as we failed 
in our expectation I was blamed for every fault that had 
been committed, and for what were not faults. I was 
hurt and grieved at all this, and if the men alone had been 
my accusers I would not have thought so hard, but their 
wives also complained against me. I thought of Moses, 



28 

how very unpleasant he and Aaron must have felt wheil 
the whole camp of Israel rebelled against them. I re- 
tired from all business of the company, resigned my office 
and went to my farm, and hare had nothing more to do 
with the affair since, more than to give my advice, and 
once or twice helped them out of a hard place by making 
small advancements for them. My means, that I put into 
the concern ,1 consider all gone ; and let it go, but let me 
have peace. After our failure in getting goods I pro- 
posed to go at once to the States, and, by the aid of my 
friends, I felt that I could yet save the company, but they 
would not consent that I should go ; they struggled for 
a while, like a drowning man, and at last ceased. 

As far as our mercantile operations were concerned, 
we were dead. The saw mill still struggled on, and is yet 
gasping, but never can recover. In the first place it is 
the wrong kind of a mill for the country : the expenses 
attending the working of it are too great, unless it could 
be done by native labor, which cannot be procured at all. 
And as I stated before, the difficulty of transportation is 
too great; so that upon the whole it finally must go 
down. Having given a brief but faithful statement of 
our business affairs, I will now say something in relation 
to the country. 

Liberia, like all other countries, is not a paradise. If 
it were, men would not be so hard to persuade to come to 
it, but would seek to partake of the fruits of the garden. 
Nor is it on the other hand a purgatory ; but like all 
other lands, it has its sweets and its bitters, its sorrows 
and its pleasures, its life and its death. Yes, death has 
found its way into the peaceful regions of Western Africa. 
In America I have seen husband and wife parted ; children 
snatched from the embraces of their parents, and friend 



24 

fall by the side of friend. Death sometimes makes awful 
havoc among the living, and strikes consternation and 
alarm unto thousands that she spares. See them flying 
from the monster, leaving home, property, business and 
friends, and fleeing for terror I — what is the matter ? 
Death is in town, in my neighborhood, yea in my house I 
Steamboats crowded, cars packed all in confusion, and 
what does all this mean ? — Death, death is here I 

And let me inform my reader that death is in Liberia, 
though not so terrible as in other countries. There is no 
great occasion of alarm ; there are no sweeping epidemics. 
The cholera has never yet visited her shores ; the yellow 
fever has not yet made its appearance in Liberia ; the 
small-pox is but seldom seen ; the measles, the scarlet- 
fever, the typhus fever, and a host of other diseases, do 
not infest her shores. And yet we have said that death 
is here ; yes, it is here, and friend must part from friend, 
brother from sister, and husband from wife. We have 
witnessed this in Liberia as well as in America, and 
where shall we go where the monster is not, and where 
is it not the enemy of man ? They have found that all 
the gold of California or Australia could not bribe it to 
remain from those rich regions. The power of Russia, 
or England, or America, or all combined, cannot con- 
quer it, and keep it out of their territories. And why is 
it expected that death ought not to visit Liberia ? It is 
not expected, but by the enemies of Liberia ; and they 
do not expect this, but argue it. And when one dies in 
Liberia, what a wonder I Oh, how awful 1 And the friends 
who have been left in America, mourn over the fate of 
those that died in Liberia. But if they had remained in 
America and died, it would not have been anything out 
of the usual course of events. But how awful because 



25 

they died in Liberia. Foolish creatures who reason thus. 
Why not die in Liberia as well as in America ? Death is 
but the common lot of us all whether here or there. One 
of our good citizens visited the States a short time ago 
and died in New York ; but his friends do not reflect on 
America as being the cause of his death, and advise all 
others to remain in Liberia, for fear, if they go to New 
York, they will die. No, some unforseen cause led to his 
death, and no reflections upon any one or place. But, 
say the enemies of Liberia, the acclimating fever is what 
destroys our friends that go to Liberia. Well, out of the 
fifty that came out in the emigration with me, there were 
but two died with the acclimating fever ; and one of these 
was at the advanced age of eighty-six years. Although 
up to this time, there are ten dead, all the rest have 
died with other complaints : one from the effects of sali- 
vation ; one from pleurisy ; one from dropsy. Now, why 
all this hue and cry ? But I admit that some emigrations 
suffer more than others, and the reason is simply this : 
some come here that will have their own way in spite 'of 
all that doctor or agent or any other person can do to 
prevent. And those are they that suffer most. But I 
do say that where proper care is taken by the emigrant, 
but few die. I will also remark that some locations are 
more healthy than others; and those who choose for 
themselves in coming to Liberia, ought to be particular 
on this point, and find out the most healthy location and 
settle there. I would here say, that Cape Mount is un- 
questionably the healthiest in all the country. Emigrants 
coming here have scarcely any fever, and a great many 
escape altogether. It is a beautiful place. I have visited 
a number of the settlements since residing in the country, 
and I pronounce all in a prosperous condition. In some 

3 



26 

of tliem agriculture is begining to be carried on to a con- 
siderable degree. The St. Paul's farmers are in general, 
industrious and prosperous. Many very fine plantations 
are to be seen. Amongst which we will name Jordon's, 
Richardson's, Outland, Blacklidge and others, who have 
as good sugar plantations as I ever saw in the neighbor- 
hood of New Orleans. They are not as yet making 
as good an article of sugar as they do on the Missis- 
sippi, but the molasses is superior to Orleans molasses. 
Several fine coffee farms are to be seen also along the 
banks of the river; and, I think, as far as my judgment 
goes, that the people of this region are doing as w^ell as 
they could possibly do anywhere. I spent some days 
along the river in December last, and was highly delighted 
with the prospects of a great and rich community in a 
short time. 

Junk settlement is progressing but slowly. They 
have not had any increase from emigration since the 
first Marshall family : hence the name. I will say of 
this region, that a family can live cheaper than in any 
other part of Liberia that I know anything about. Here 
you are in a good farming community, (native farming). 
Rice grows in abundance, and can be had in the proper 
rice season for about thirty cents per kroo or half bushel. 
Cassadas grow in great abundance, and can be bought 
for almost nothing. I am speaking of things in general. 
The last year has been an exception to the general rule ; 
there has been an unusual scarcity both of rice and 
cassada, and both were much dearer than usual. The 
Junk river is one of the best in the republic for fish. 
The large mullet is taken here in great abundance, and is 
a superior fish ; it eats much like the shad when fresh — 
it is by far the best fish in this country. There is also an 



I 



27 

abundance of oysters of the very best quality, and easy to 
catch. The principal food of the citizens in the dry sea- 
son are fish and oysters. I lived on this fare for some two 
and a half years, and was no ways tired of it. Had 
things been left to my choice, I would have gladly re- 
mained at Marshall. The people of this settlement are 
the most happy people that I ever saw, they are sure of 
enough to eat, and that seems to be all they care for ; 
they make no effort to improve the place or the land, but 
eat fish and oysters, cassada and rice, and talk politics. 
They all trade a little, and are an exception to all others. 
I am glad to learn that the universal practice of native 
trade that existed a few years ago, is fast getting into 
disrepute among the thinking portion of the people, and 
they are encouraging agriculture in its stead. And the 
time is not far in the distance when men will generally see 
that this practice is not to their advantage nor the advan- 
tage of the country. 

On the whole our beloved little republic is on the ad- 
vance ; and in spite of all that can be done by her enemies 
in the United States, she will grow into greatness ; al- 
though a Nesbit and a Delany, a Purvis, and a host of 
others have sworn that she shall not prosper. She will 
let them see that they have not the power to stop her 
progress. Her churches, her schools, her benevolent 
societies, all tell to the world that she lives in the age of 
improvement, and cannot be held back by designing men, 
neither white nor black. She is now reckoned among 
the nations of the earth ; and who is he that can tell what 
is in the future for her. Carthage was once smaller than 
Liberia, and to what greatness did she rise in five centu- 
ries. Liberia is on the same continent, and after a lapse 
of some two thousand years, who knows but that another 



28 

as great as Carthage is to arise, to give laws to the nations 
in Africa, if not to foreign nations ? We have plenty of 
nations within our own limits that we can and will give 
laws to, and teach them the customs of civilized life, and 
they are already beginning to look up to us for this ; and 
it is not unfrequent that we are called upon to settle their 
disputes and wars, which we always do in an amicable 
way, and make all parties satisfied. 

The time will come when Liberia will be regarded in a 
far different light, with such men at her helm as she has 
had to guide her since her national existence. She must 
advance, and that rapidly. Roberts, who was the man 
for the times, has no superior as a ruler of a young 
nation ; and it seems providential that he should be here 
to take hold at the very time of all others that he was 
most needed. He is called old Gruff — gruff as he may 
be, he knows how to rule, and when all things seems to 
be in a fair channel to prosperity, he leaves or vacates his 
chair. In other words, he refuses to be renominated, but 
leaves it for another, who was providentially spared from 
the merciless hand of the savage, to be the chief magis- 
trate of this young nation. And why do men fight 
against God ? for can it not be easily seen that God has 
this young nation under his fostering care ? Stephen A. 
Benson, the mild and unassuming, if he has any fault it is 
that of diflSdence. He does not desire to take the honors 
that is due him. He is a Christian, a gentleman, and a 
statesman. I was present at a meeting between him on 
the part of the government, and a number of the chiefs of 
the Vey country, and I was delighted to see with what 
calmness and decision he talked the Palaver, He was 
settling a difficulty between themselves. And when they 
would grow noisy and angry at each other, he could 



29 

bring them to order with the utmost ease. Now all that 
Liberia wants to secure her future greatness, is to keep 
men like these always in office, and not to let politics get 
the better of their judgment, but always vote for the 
best and ablest men, and all will be right and the country 
grow. In a century from this time, the offspring of 
her now most inveterate enemies amongst the colored race 
will be seeking protection under her wings. Yes, though 
men may talk and write and threaten, yet they cannot 
stop the advancement of truth, liberty and civilization. 
These things will advance in spite of all the combined 
powers of the world or hell. 

Shortly after my arrival in Liberia I became connected 
with the missionary operations ; and, after spending one 
year in this labor, I became much interested in it, and 
came to the conclusion to spend the remainder of my 
days in the cause ; although it is a work that is attended 
in some cases with much labor and exposure, and that at 
small pay as far as pecuniary pay goes ; yet, it is a most 
delightful work to those who have the worth of souls at 
heart ; and this I trust that I have. My first appointment 
was at Marshall, to take charge of the small society there. 
Here I labored for two years ; and I do most sincerely 
hope that I was the instrument, in God^s hands, of doing 
some good, both to the settlers and the surrounding 
natives. I can look back to this field of labor with feel- 
ings of delight, and at the place with sorrow. It was 
here that I had many seasons with a few good brethren 
and sisters. And this is the place that contains the re- 
mains of a beloved wife. But then I reflect that she did 
not die as do those who have no hope, but in the full con- 
fidence of a Iledeemer\s love. Her aslies rest in a grove 
near the Methodist Episcopal Church, where she will 

3* 



m 

remain until she and I shall be summoned by the great 
trumpet ^s sound. May my last days be as peaceful as hers. 

After spending two years in this charge, Conference, in 
its wisdom, thought fit to remove me from that to my 
present station at Cape Mount, although I would rather 
have remained where I was. But I am a believer in the 
itinerant plan, and as far as civilized communities are 
concerned, I believe there is no plan like it. But for 
the native work I do think that a preacher who is accepted 
of them ought not to be removed, until death removes 
him ; he should learn their language, live among them, 
and become one of them. 

But to return, I of course, after my appointment was 
read out, made all possible haste to get to my new field 
of labor, and arrived at Cape Mount on the tth of Jan^ 
uary, 185Y, and found all peaceable among the brethren. 
But my labors are not confined to the settlement, but I 
have all the accessible part of the Yey country to attend 
to. And I must say here, in the language of sacred 
writ, "the harvest truly is great, but the laborers are few." 
This is a very interesting country. The natives are in 
the advance of their neighbors of the leeward coast at 
least fifty years. I have made several excursions among 
them, and was truly astonished to find so much intelli- 
gence. But as it has been the universal custom for ages 
gone by, to get all off a stranger that they can, it remains 
to a great degree the same yet amongst this people. 
They are shrewd in trade, and the man that gets any thing 
off them pays for it. But yet these people are very 
anxious to be instructed, and any of the chiefs would be 
willing to allow a school to be established in his town for 
the purpose of instructing his children. 

Among other places I visited Gordonama, an interior 



31 

town, situated twenty-five miles from the coast. I 
found the path or rather the water course much obstruct- 
ed by roots, logs and trees ; and after spending part of 
two days in getting to the head of navigation, I at last 
arrived there, and then walked about four and a half hours 
to get to the town. It was dark when I arrived, and could 
see but little ; so I got supper and went to bed for the 
night. I got up early in the morning and was astonished 
at what I saw. The house that I lodged in was the 
largest in the place, and it was truly a fine house. It 
was on the public square where all the town meetings are 
held. They hald a meeting the night that I was there, 
and I was much interested with the affair. About seven 
o'clock the big bell suspended at one end of the house in 
which I lodged, was rung, and a boy could be heard pro- 
claiming through the street, and calling all the people 
together. I went to the piazza and took a seat to see 
what was to be done. A young man, that spoke English 
very well, came and seated himself by my side, and 
told me that the people were called to hear words from 
the king, who was absent at that time. It was concern- 
ing a report that a neighboring town was preparing to 
make war on this town, and he warned his people to be 
ready ; that they should call all the people from the small 
towns, and from the farms, and should keep a strict watch ; 
and if any thing happened, that they should dispatch a 
herald to him immediately. This was about the amount 
of the address, which was given by a young man of 
beautiful countenance. His mien was erect while he was 
addressing the people. Speaking of the bravery of his 
townsmen and the feats they had done in wars, he be- 
came most intensely excited. He would throw up his 
arms and his head, and his whole gesture was grand and 



82 

vehement. When about to conclude, he threw up his 
spear in the air and yelled in the most wild and fright- 
ful manner, that alarmed me no little. The yell was re- 
sponded to by the whole assembly. And now came fun : 
The banjos struck up, and the drum began to play, and 
all was commotion. The whole company fell into a regu- 
lar dance. No women are allowed at these meetings. I 
was somewhat amused at several very old men, who were 
so old that they could not get their feet up, would stand 
still, and all animation, lift the heel and try to keep 
time to the music. After spending twenty or thirty 
minutes in this way, the whole company dispersed, and iu 
a few minutes more all was still throughout the town, with 
the exception of the sentinePs call. I thought while thus 
looking at the proceeding of this evening, if this people 
could be brought into civilized habits, what a noble people 
they would be. The Vey people are surely a superior 
people, and a remarkably good looking set of men. 

I took a stroll around town, and I saw much industry. 
The people were spinning and weaving, and making 
crockery ware ; it presented quite a business appearance. 
I stopped to notice how the women spun their cotton, 
and was astonished at the simplicity of the machine. It 
was nothing more than a stick with a socket on the one 
end, and a split in the other ; the socket end went down, 
and an oyster shell served to let it spin in ; the cotton 
thread was fastened to the stick or spindle, and the 
operator would start it with the thumb and finger, and 
while the speed would keep up, she would make the best 
of her time in letting out the thread, and when the speed 
would cease, she would wind up what she had let out and 
start it again. Thus by a continuous application of 
thumb and finger, the speed would be kept up all day, 



38 

and quite an amount of thread made. I next stopped in 
a weaver's shop, and this was about as strange as the 
spinning. He has his reeds and gears as any other 
weaver, but they are of a diminutive size ; the reeds are 
not more than from four to six inches in width, and 
hence they do not mak« any cloth wider than this. But 
to make up this deficiency, they will sow piece to piece, 
until they have it as wide as they may want it. I have 
seen some most beautiful cloths made in this rude way, 
and they are quite an article of trade on the coast. 

After looking at all the curiosities, I returned to my 
room to await breakfast, and in due time there was 
brought me a large bowl of rice and palaver sauce, and a 
pitcher of cold water. I took breakfast, and then walked 
out to take a look at the suspension bridge that crossed 
the river, or creek. I had crossed it the evening before, 
but I could not see what it was like, as it was dark ; 
when I approached it now, I saw a bridge constructed 
on the same principle on which that of Roebling's Wire 
Suspension Bridges are constructed. Here vines are 
used instead of wire : vine after vine has been laid across 
the river, until it has become of sufiScient strength, and 
then the whole is wrapped with another vine, which 
forms it into a body of some five or six inches in diameter. 
After the two side pieces are thus put up, they have then 
worked it with a kind of basket work, and completed it 
by ties from the centre, that pass to either side, and 
fasten to a tree. Take the bridge as a whole, it is about 
one of the greatest curiosities that I have met with in 
Africa. The stream over which the bridge passes, is 
sixty or eighty feet wide. 

It was here that a great massacre took place a few 
years ago. Gordonama was at war with some of the 



84 

people in that region ; the enemy thought to steal 
a march upon the people of Gordonama, and came in a 
body. But the king of this place was on the look out, 
and had his spies stationed in all directions ; when the 
enemy approached near to the crossing place, they found 
that a recent rain had swelled the stream bank full, and 
they were reduced to the necessity of resorting to the 
bridge as a crossing place. The spies were on the alert, 
and waited until the whole army was across, with the 
exception of what was then on the bridge ; it was suffi- 
cient to contain some forty or fifty. At this juncture, 
the ambuscade rushed out, and with one slash of the cut- 
lass they severed the ties of the bridge at the one end, 
and let the whole thing down into the stream with all 
that was on it ; and the stream being bank full, there 
was no chance for any to escape. But some forty or 
fifty fell victims to this scheme. The residue of the 
army seeing what had befallen their comrades, were filled 
with consternation, and began to fly for their lives. 
George Kain, the king of Gordonama, pursued, and 
great was the slaughter that day ; many of the drowned 
floated down the river and out at the bar-mouth. This 
struck terror into all the enemies of Kain, and he had 
peace for a considerable time. 

After viewing this bridge, I returned to my lodgings, 
and received the head men of the city, to have a talk 
with them about the prospects for mission operations 
among them. I met some six or eight of the principal 
men, and they gave me much encouragement. They told 
me that Kain was very favorable to every thing that 
would give his people knowledge, and for that purpose 
he had a Mandingo God-man in his town. I told them 
that our God palaver was much better than the Man- 



dingo's, and our books would learn them more sense. 
These head men were all willing that operations should 
be commenced in their town, with the exception of one. 
He was the chief warrior, and was called a Softly man. 
It was said of him, that he could approach an army of 
any number without being perceived. He had the power 
to blind the eyes of all, and walk amongst the enemy and 
see all they were doing and depart, and no one could be 
the wiser. I, of course, believed as much of this as I 
pleased ; but this man was opposed to my coming to the 
town as a preacher or a teacher — -he thought that they 
did not need my instruction, and would not have any 
thing to say to me afterwards. But by the rest of these 
head-men I was treated with much kindness. They told 
me that I should make myself easy, as this was my town. 
My house was continually beset by a host of women and 
children, who were led there by curiosity to see the white 
God-man, as they called me. I was perhaps the first 
preacher that had ever visited this place, and they all 
wondered, no doubt, what was to be the result of my 
visit. After the consultation with the chiefs, I invited 
them all to come in the evening and hear me talk God- 
palaver; and when the evening came, the room which 
was about twenty feet square, was filled with those that 
wished to hear what was to be said After all was seated 
on the floor, or on such things as they could get to set 
upon, I told them by an interpreter, that before I talked 
to them, I must talk to God ; and to do this, I told them 
they must all get on their knees. I was obeyed, and all 
of us knelt down before God in this heathen town, and 
perhaps the most for the first time in all their lives. I 
prayed to the great Giver of all good to meet me on this 
occasion, and give the words that I was about to utter, 



«6 

power to reach the hearts of this poor benighted people, 
and while I thus prayed, the spirit of the Lord came upon 
rae, and I was much blessed, and felt greatly encouraged 
to talk to this people, After prayer, I spoke to them of 
God's power, and of his mercy and goodness. They 
seemed to sanction all that I said, and listened with 
the utmost attention. I spoke about twenty minutes, and 
after I was done, they all seemed pleased with what they 
had heard. I concluded the exercise with prayer, and 
dismissed the congregation. I was so much encouraged 
by what I had seen, and the impressions that I thought 
were made, that I made up my mind to attend to this 
people regularly. And although the distance was great, 
yet I hoped to be able to visit them at least once a 
month. This visit was made in the latter end of Jan- 
uary, 185Y. But in my arrangements I was frustrated. 
I was not in good health at the time I paid this visit, 
and on going home my health became so very poor, that 
I thought it prudent to remain in the settlement, and 
confine my labors to it. But I had frequent opportuni- 
ties to talk with the natives, and I met Kain when 
he came down on business with the government, and had 
frequent conversations with him on the subject of a mis- 
sion at his place ; he is perfectly willing that it should 
be, and indeed is anxious to have a school in his town, 
and promises to protect the Missionary whoever he may 
be. He himself is fond of talking on the subject of the 
Christian religion, and while in the settlement he visited 
the Church several times. He often calls at my house 
to converse with me, and of course I always turn the sub- 
ject of conversation upon religion. He is quite intelli- 
gent, and speaks English very well. 

I consider the town of Gordonama of more importance 



87 

as a mission post than any other place in my knowledge ; 
and I am quite extensively acquainted in the Bassa 
country, having lived in it for upwards of two years. 
This place is important on account of its large popula- 
tion. Kain tells me that he can muster for the field five 
hundred and sixty men, which would make the population 
at least fifteen hundred. Now, in this number, there are 
many that are at least half civilized, having lived with 
the settlers when young. Many speak English very well, 
and it would not take a great deal of labor to secure 
their influence at least ; and, in some cases, some of this 
class might embrace religion, which would advance the 
cause very much. 

Again, this place would be of great importance, be- 
cause, that missionaries residing here, could receive their 
supplies with much more ease than from any other large 
town that I know of. They can be brought within twelve 
or fifteen miles of the town, and then it can be packed by 
natives from this place for a small amount. 

Another reason that I would give, which in my opinion 
adds importance to the place — it is a kind of depot to the 
interior trade — the interior people brin^^ their stuff thus 
far and barter it with this people and return home. It is 
but seldom that the bushman ever beholds the sea coast. 
This is law ; and this law is made by the people of Gor- 
donama and the neighboring towns. It certainly is very 
unjust, and ought to be done away. Now, the missionary 
would be able to exert an influence to have this matter 
set right ; and more than this, those bushmen would hear 
the gospel, and would carry the tidings of it into the 
interior with them, and excite the people of their region 
to have the like operation among them. It would prove 
a great key to the vast Goula and Mandingo countries, 

4 



88 

I feel confident that if there was a judicious effort made 
and proper men employed for this work, that success 
would attend. But it wants men that are not afraid to 
die ; that would not turn aside from duty at every seem- 
ing difi5culty. They must be brave men— men that have 
the cause of Christ much at heart — men that are willing 
to make every sacrifice that is required of them for the 
work's sake. I am in great hopes that the time is not 
far off when there will be a move in this — when the 
Board of Missions to which I am attached, may take 
the matter in hand, and plant Christianity in the great 
interior of Western Africa. The expenses attending a 
missionary operation in the interior would not be as 
great as on the coast. In the first place, they could 
build much cheaper. The buildings, of course, would be 
of a different kind ; yet they could make very comfortable 
houses for one-fourth of what it would cost in Liberia. 
For instance, I built a mission house for the conference 
at Marshall, which is in the old settlement, at the cost of 
seven hundred dollars. This house was thirty feet by 
thirty-two, and perhaps will last twenty years. I built 
another mission house, on the native plan of building, at 
Cape Mount, twenty-four feet by thirty-six, and quite as 
comfortable as the former, at the cost of one hundred 
dollars ; and this house will last at least, in careful 
hands, ten years. So, for seven hundred dollars, we will 
have a house for seventy years instead of twenty. Thus, 
could the mission build all her houses in the interior, and 
missionaries could live fully as cheap in the interior as on 
the coast ; they could buy the country produce for one 
half the cost price, and could afford to pay a little more 
for what they import. 
, I trust in God that this country's redemption draws 



39 

nigh. Oh I that God may inspire the hearts of many to 
lay hold of this important work ; and may every one that 
enlists, enlist with the motto of a sainted Cox as their 
watchword : '^ Though a thousand fall, let not Africa be 
abandoned." There are many more important places in 
this region that might be occupied with profit. Medenia 
is a most beautiful little place, and its head man quite a 
gentleman ; but not so favorable to the preaching of the 
gospel amongst his people. There is Sugary, another 
small place owned by King Sandfish, an old man of at 
least eighty years ; his head and beard as white as wool ; 
he is very pleasant in his manners, and quite a friend to 
the Liberians, and does much for them. He is a very 
strict Mahometan, but yet he allows any one to come to 
his town and preach the Christian religion. I visited his 
place once, and expect to make it one of my regular 
preaching places. 

The natives of this portion of Africa are a very strange 
and singular people, and their customs are perhaps dif- 
ferent from all others. First we notice them in their 
agricultural pursuits. In the month of January this 
operation commences by cutting down all the small 
bushes that grow on the land that they wish to cultivate. 
This is done with an instrument that they call a bill- 
hook. This instrument is not large, and it is crooked 
at the end like the hawk's bill, hence it derives its name. 
With this instrument it is surprising the amount of work 
they will do in a day. After all the small bush is cut, 
they let it lay for some time to dry before felling the 
larger trees upon it. After it is sufficiently dry, then 
they begin to cut what they call the big stick. This is 
the tree that is too large to be cut with a bill-hook ; 
this they do with a country made axe. This weapon 



40 

would make our backwoodsman laugh if it was handed 
to him to clear his forest with. The country blacksmith 
has not yet learned to jDut an eye in aa axe, and hence 
to avoid this difficulty he puts the eye in the handle. 
He thinks it much easier to put a hole through wood 
than through iron. The axe is about two inches wide 
at the bit, and tapers towards the pole, until it runs off 
to a sharp point ; they then procure a good solid stick 
that has a knot at the end, and then they burn a hole in 
this end through the knot, and the axe is stuck through 
this hole. It is then ready for operation. With this 
machine they go to work upon the big stick. The sap- 
ling they fell with great ease ; but when they come to a 
large tree, they begin to make preparations to attack its 
upper branches. To do this, they build a scaffold along- 
side so that they can get up to the small part of the tree, 
and here they cut, as they believe that the wood is much 
softer up from what it is at the ground. If the tree is 
very large, they will climb up and cut off all the branches, 
limb by limb. They have no care how matters look, so 
that they remove the shade from the ground. After all 
the big sticks have been cut and trimmed down so that 
they will lay close to the earth, they then rest ; having 
done all the work of cutting, they now wait for the sun to 
do its part in drying the whole mass and preparing it for 
the flames. After some three or four weeks of dry weather 
they apply the torch, and with the wind blowing fresh 
from the sea, it soon communicates to every part of the 
cut district and consumes all the leaves and small branches, 
with all the insects that might have been on the soil. 
While the fire is burning the men are singing to some 
favorite idol or god to help the flames to do its work, for 
upon this depends the hope of success in reaping a crop. 



41 

It is a fact that rice does not grow well on land that 
is not burnt. I know this from experience. Many a 
poor fellow, after all the labor that he has expended in 
cutting his farm, when he attempts to burn it sees all his 
labor lost, the fire refusing to do its part ; that man is 
doomed to be hungry for one whole year. This was 
the cause of the hard times that we have had for the last 
two years in Liberia ; the farms were all cut as usual, but 
the rains set in before the farms were dry enough to burn, 
and in some districts, in consequence of this, there was 
nearly starvation produced. If it had not been for the 
bountiful provisions of Providence in planting the palm 
tree, many hundreds would have starved. It did not 
alone affect the countryman, but the colonist too was the 
sufferer. Formerly, he could buy his rice for one dollar 
per bushel, but now the price rose in proportion to the 
demand, and he had to pay four dollars. Cassada, too, 
rises in proportion. Formerly, he could get it for twelve 
and-a-half cents, now he pays fifty. Thus, hard times 
were universal in all the land. After the burning opera- 
tion, then comes the planting process. This is done by 
the women with a small hoe, which is called the rice hoe. 
This thing is about as large as a large blade of a Congress 
penknife, and is stuck into a stick about eighteen inches 
long. With this is done the ploughing that is done in 
these parts. After the rice is scattered over the ground, 
then this instrument is used in scratching it under. It is 
a very tedious process. Often there will be in one field 
of about five acres some ten or twelve women, and of all 
the singing and noise that was ever heard, are heard on 
these occasions. After this operation is over, then there 
is a season of comparative leisure. All that is now to 
be done is to keep the pigeons from picking up the seed 

4^ 



42 

that has been planted, until it has come up. Then there 
is nothing to do until the rice begins to fill. It then 
requires all the children about the town that can scare a 
bird to be on the spot to keep off the rice bird. This 
little creature is a greater annoyance to the rice grower 
than any other thing that he has to contend with. They 
come in great numbers, and will choose a tree in the 
vicinity, and here they rally, after being repulsed from 
the field, and will again dart down by thousands, and if 
some one is not on the spot to drive them away, in an 
incredible short time they will have destroyed all the rice 
in the place where they light. They do not take the 
grain, but they suck the milk from the grain and leave it 
altogether worthless, so that it is necessary to have a 
sentinel at every point to prevent the enemy from doing 
the work of destruction. 

When the rice is ripe, and it commences to ripen in 
the latter end of July, then all hands are required in the 
field every day, men, women and children, and all supplied 
with knives to cut rice. They do not use the sickle as 
they do in America, but each uses a small knife; and he 
takes the rice, stock by stock, and holds it in his hand 
until he has cut a handful. It is then given into the 
hands of the tier, who goes around and collects it from 
the cutters ; and when there is a sufficient amount, it is 
tied up with a rattan string and stuck upon a stump 
until evening, w^hen all hands each takes his part and 
carries it to the rice kitchen Here it is laid up loosely 
for a day or two, that it may dry out before packing. It 
is then packed away in the kitchen, and fires kept under 
it until it becomes perfectly dry. Here it remains until 
taken down to be threshed out for use. 

After the harvest is all housed, then comes what would 



43 

be called in old Pennsylvania, a harvest home. Every 
body gives themselves up to frolicking and amusement, 
and this season continues until the next cutting time. 
Great care is taken that all work may be out of the way. 
Their houses have been repaired in the forepart of the 
season ; their canoes have been dug out, and all is leisure 
to be devoted to amusement. This is the great season 
of visiting, banjo picking, drumming and dancing. This 
season too is appropriated to burying their dead. It is 
a season of universal joy and plenty. 

If a person of distinction die, they are laid carefully 
away until they get time to bury him. This time is 
always chosen in the season when there is plenty, as it is 
a matter of the greatest importance to the friends to 
know that everybody has plenty on these occasions. The 
body that had been laid away will be produced, although 
it may have laid for a month, and may be handled with 
perfect impunity. I remember while at Junk, that a 
man with whom I was well acquainted, came to me and 
told me that his brother was dead, and wanted me to 
have him a cofiSn made. I felt sorry for his loss, as he 
had been a very good friend of mine, and asked him 
when his brother died, supposing that he had died that 
morning or the previous night ; but, judge my astonish- 
ment, when I was told by my friend that he had died 
four days past. Said I, you just now come for a 
coffin I why did you not come as soon as he died ? I 
was told that he had been busy cutting farm, and had 
not the time until now. And where is your dead bro- 
ther all this time ? said I. He told me he had shut him 
up in the house where he died, and left him until he got 
time to bury him in a becoming way. Hence he wished 
a coffin made in American style. I recommended him 



44 

to the manager of the saw mill, who had one made for 
him. 

I notice this circumstance, to show that there is no 
unpleasant smell arising from dead bodies. If the dead 
to be buried is a king, there will be a great gathering of 
all the neighbouring kings, head men and worthies in all 
the country, and every one will bring with him a large 
amount of rice and other provisions. Some will bring 
sheep and goats, and fowls will be brought in abundance ; 
wash bowls, cloth, and every kind of country money that 
they may have, is brought to this great feast of the dead. 
The corpse will then be brought, and if there has no part 
been stolen, it will be deposited in its long resting place, 
and every person of distinction, will deposit in the grave 
a small portion of the goods brought. But they are 
very careful not to spare much as a sacrifice. The 
balance of the goods is bartered among the crowd. The 
rice is cooked, the goats are killed, the fowls are dressed 
and made into soup, and they will have a feast on this 
occasion that will be remembered until another king dies. 
After the feast, the whole winds up with a grand play, 
and this is done to perfection. 

The African huntsman is a person of some importance 
among his people. All the small game, or in other words, 
animals, belong to the man who kills them. There is 
no special law concerning them. But there is what is 
called grand meat, or king^s meat. This cannot be 
touched until it is first brought and presented to the king, 
and through him to the people, after he is served. A 
Leopard is one of this kind. The man who is fortunate 
enough to kill one of these animals, is considered a 
mighty man. When he kills one, he procures the assist- 
ance of some of his comrades to bring it to town ; they 




45 

approach the town quietly until they get very near, and 
then they begin to yell and rush into the centre or square, 
and they here throw down their burden, when they stop ; 
the proud huntsman takes his seat on the beast, and 
begins to relate a story in which he has but little regard 
for truth. He says, that while walking leisurely through 
the bush, he by chance came upon this small bit of an 
animal, and not knowing what it was, he of course shot 
it, and brought it to the king to see if he could give it a 
name. When the king steps up, feels proud that he can 
impart the required information, and in all the dignity 
of an African chieftain, he says that this is a Leopard. 
And when the multitude hear the name, they all roar in 
a shout, that the king's meat has been killed. The man 
who brought in the Leopard, keeps his seat upon the body 
of the monster, until the king advances and gives him his 
dash, which generally consists of two fathoms — or four 
yards of white cloth, a little powder, and a few gun 
flints. The king then retires, and the citizens generally 
advance and each tender him something ; some a head 
of tobacco, powder, or whatever they may have. After 
this ceremony has been gone through with, the victor 
arises, and the king advances to receive the prize, which 
is done with considerable formality. The king orders a 
scaffold to be erected, and the Leopard is hoisted upon 
it and set upright, and perhaps a large country cloth is 
put upon him, and a cap on his head ; and in this way 
is he decorated to receive the honors of the town. Every 
man then gets his gun, and there is, perhaps, two or 
three rounds of blank cartridges discharged ; then the 
drum and the banjo are produced, and all the warriors, 
guns in hand, have a dance around their fallen foe. After 
this is concluded, the beast is taken down from his ele- 



46 

vated station, and the king appoints some one to skin 
him ; this done, the king takes the head, and gives the 
balance of the meat to the people. Then commences a 
scene of confusion, which lavSts but for a few minutes ; 
every one rushes to obtain a piece of this delicious luxury ; 
knives are glistening and clattering. Each one cuts for 
himself, and many leave the scene wounded, and perhaps 
without any of the meat to pay for the trouble of con- 
tending. If an individual becomes wounded by his 
neighbour in an affray of this kind, he has no redress. 

The Devil Bush is an institution that exists amongst 
the Africans, which seems to be of the most ancient date, 
and it is something that the outsider understands as little 
about as any other practice among them. It is known 
that an institution of this kind does exist : but what is 
done in the bush is a mystery that many of the curious 
have tried in vain to solve. The place chosen for this 
bush, is the most wild and fearful in all the neighborhood, 
and there seems to be a sacredness attached to all places 
of this kind, and none but those who belong to the insti- 
tution dare approach it. If a woman is known to have 
been in this place, the law demands that she must die ; 
and even after they have been abandoned, they will not 
allow any one to encroach upon them. I would not like 
to be the man that should be found cutting a bush on 
one of these old Devil Bushes. I would expect to pay 
the forfeit with my life ; they would find some way to 
poison me. 

The women too have their secret order, which is called 
the Greegree Bush. Here they meet once a year, and 
they are as particular as the men are about their's, and 
will not allow a man to approach their holy place. Here 
all the young maidens are taken before they are disposed 



1 



47 

of for wives, and it is considered an everlasting dishonor 
to grow up and not to know the secrets of the Greegree 
Bush. There are but few that are permitted thus to 
escape knowing, as the old women attend to all the 
youngsters, and do not ask for their consent to go to this 
place, but take them by force, and initiate them in the 
secrets of the order. 

I have said that after the rice is cut and safely housed, 
that it is a season of luxury. It truly is the case, and it 
seems that they know no bounds to their pleasures. But 
it is one continued feasting, singing and dancing. The 
town will make what is called a big play, and all its 
neighbours are free to come and partake. If the head- 
man is wealthy, he will have a bullock killed on the occa- 
sion, and sheep and goats in abundance ; rice and palavar 
sauce, dumboy, and all the country dishes, are in profu- 
sion, and all perfectly free for all that comes, whether it 
be a countryman or an American ; all are well treated, 
and they eat, talk, and sleep all day, and . sing, drum and 
dance all night ; and thus are several days spent. In a 
short time, another king or head-man willl make a feast 
of the same kind, and of course does not wish to be out- 
done by his neighbour ; every nerve will be strained to 
be at least up with the last entertainment of the kind. 
And thus it is for about three or four months. No work 
is done that can possibly be left undone during this 
season. 

The native Africans have no great variety of dishes of 
food ; their most common dish is rice and palavar sauce. 
This dish is simple ; the rice is boiled and lifted in a 
bowl. A sauce is prepared made out of ochre or ochre 
leaves. This is put into a mortar and beat until it is 
formed into a pulp ; it is then dressed with a little hot 



48 

palm oil and boiled chicken or fish', and served up on top 
of the rice, which makes the whole a very rich dish. 
Many is the bowl that I have enjoyed after a fatiguing 
walk to get to a town. Another favorite dish is the 
dumboy. This is made by boiling the cassada, and then 
beating them in the mortar until they are formed into 
something like light dough. They then prepare a soup, 
made out of fish, or fowl, or flesh, as the case may be, 
which is seasoned very hot with pepper ; you then take 
the soup and pour it over the dumboy, and it is ready to 
be eaten. This is a very good dish, and one that is much 
used, both among the Bassa and Yey people, and which 
I used whenever I could get it. 

The religion of the natives is a subject which is hard 
to define. To tell what are their religious views, would 
be impossible, they are so mixed with superstition. How- 
ever, they all believe in a God that made all things, and 
they pray to this Being. But they are perfectly ignorant 
on every other fundamental doctrine of the Bible. They 
believe in a devil, and they worship him also. They 
have their religion filled with the most strange ideas. 
They have no knowledge of the resurrection, and this 
doctrine is altogether new to them, and they scarcely 
know how to understand it. Yet they are disposed to 
give heed to all that a preacher says, and they think it 
impossible for a God-man to lie. 

There is not a more kind people in the world than they. 
If a stranger comes to one of their towns, every effort is 
put forth to make him happy. The first care is to provide 
for his necessities, and a woman is called and the rice 
given out, the fowl killed, and in a short time a bowl of 
rice will be brought, and another containing the soup, 
and set before the stranger. It matters not how urgent 



49 

may be the business, nothing can be done until after the 
parties have eaten. The best house in the town is set 
aside for the accommodation of the guest, and everybody 
seems happy to be the servant of the stranger. Of course 
they expect something in return. This is a universal 
custom as far as I have heard. The dash seems only to 
be the ancient custom handed down to this age ; it pre- 
vailed universally in the eastern country, and the queen 
of Sheba, when she came to see Solomon, brought gifts 
with her, I always give the headman a small dash when 
I go to his town, either to preach or otherwise, and it 
has its effect, although I once thought differently. But 
at the present, any one that wishes to be esteemed and 
popular amongst these people, must give them. It will 
get an audience by far the easiest. It is amongst this 
simple people that it is my lot to labor in the ministry. 
What care is required that my deportment may be such 
that the gospel may not be blamed ! It requires much 
prayer and faith that God may plant His word that His 
servant sows. There is perhaps no class of men in 
the world that needs the instructions of missionaries 
more than the poor Africans. When we consider the 
length of time that they have been in the most abject 
ignorance and superstition, without one ray of light to 
lighten their pathway through this world of sin and 
wretchedness, oh ! what diligence, what labor, and 
what prayer are necessary on the part of those who are 
sent as the heralds of salvation. How strange that a 
cause so good and holy, and having for its object the 
salvation of millions and the glory of God, can be 
opposed by men who call themselves Christians ! But it 
is even so. They are to be found too in the ranks of 
colored men, who wish the world to look on them as 

5 



50 

champions of philanthropy. Yes, they speak great 
swelling words, and wish to throw every barrier in the 
way of Africans enlightenment. 

Now, we contend that all those who oppose Liberia 
oppose the mission operation in Africa. Liberia is the 
Missionary's iDrotection ; and we do say that the opera- 
tion would be much retarded if Liberia, as a nation, was 
blotted out. The government exercises an influence over 
the surrounding country that could not be exerted by any 
other human means. The natives know very well that if 
the Missionaries are interrupted they will beheld account- 
able to the government for a breach of treaty 5 but we 
argue that the opponents of Liberia affect the Missionary 
operation in another way, and that is, they strive to pre- 
judice the minds of the pious against this country, and 
thereby prevent many a good man, who might make a 
useful Missionary here, from coming. There, no doubt, 
have been thousands, who were desirous of coming to Li- 
beria, prevented from coming by the influence of the 
enemies of this country. Now we contend that they are 
not doing Liberia itself any material harm by this course, 
but the mission suffers. It wants men, and good men, 
to shoulder the cross of Christ, and proclaim the glad 
news of salvation to a perishing multitude. We are bold 
to say that there are hundreds now in the United States 
that, if left to the convictions of their own minds, would 
embrace the first opportunity of coming to this land ; but 
when those convictions are known to the public there are 
a host that rally in all their strength, and are determined 
that they shall not go to a country where they could be 
useful to themselves and to others. They employ every 
means within their reach to carry out their plans, and 
very frequently, regardless of all truth, they will assert 



51 

things of Liberia that were never heard of or thought of 
before. 

One prejudiced man, in a pamphlet, asserts that the 
Missionaries in Liberia are all, to a man, rum traders. 
Can God look upon such slander with impunity ? we think 
not. I consider the success of the mission in this field 
to depend wholly upon Liberia's prosperity ; destroy Li- 
beria as a government, and you knock out the prop upon 
which the Missionary operation leans. But it is clear 
that God has ordered Liberia's government as a stepping 
stone to the enlightenment of all this vast coast of dark 
Africa, and as being a child under his fostering hand. 
Who then is he that can do it harm ? Though hell may 
rage and vent her spite, yet all the blows aimed at the 
prosperity of this little republic will fall harmless to the 
ground. They all have failed to do that which was in- 
tended ; a Garrison has been fighting against it for more 
than a quarter of a century, and what has he done to 
injure Liberia ? He has done nothing. And a host of 
others are now engaged to injure this little nation, but 
they will all fail as those have done who have gone before 
them ; the reason is they are fighting against God. God 
has commenced the work of reclaiming Africa and he will 
finish it in his own good time ; and after all the opposi- 
tion which will be brought to bear against Liberia as a 
nation by the enemies of civilization, God will take care 
of it, for He has need of it in carrying out His designs 
in Africa He will use it as a means by which the gospel 
will be sent to the interior of this great country. How 
this is to be done through the government, yet remains 
to be seen, but those arc the convictions of my mind on 
this matter. This government is yearly making new 
treaties with the tribes beyond the limits of Liberia, and 



52 

in all the treaties the government has respect to religion, 
and does something to call the minds of the natives to 
this all important subject. Why then oppose so good a 
cause ? 

But we are told that the opposition is not against Li- 
beria but against the Colonizationists. Now, when we 
oppose the colonization cause, as an organization, we 
oppose Liberia, for they are the friends of Liberia ; but 
I am opposed to some who belong to the colonization 
society, but it is because I believe them to be bad, de- 
signing men. But I do not oppose the whole organiza- 
tion because I believe that there are some bad men in it — I 
oppose them as individuals and as dangerous men. I be- 
lieve that the time is not far off when many who now 
oppose this country and its institutions will see their 
error, and will yet be the friends of Liberia — yes, many 
who now oppose the operations of Liberia will either 
come to her embrace themselves or will send their child- 
ren to enjoy the blessings of libarty and equality, that the 
government holds out to all the oppressed sons of our 
race in every clime. They are all invited to come and 
enjoy the free institutions of a free government. They 
will yet see that the hand of God is in this whole matter, 
and will rally for the fight against ignorance and susper- 
stition in western Africa. Their weapons are the word of 
truth, by which the world shall be conquered and brought 
humbly at the feet of Jesus to own him conqueror. 

Liberia has some delightful spots and desirable homes. 
Cape Mount is one of these. I think that, in a search 
over earth's remotest bounds, a more desirable place could 
not be found. The cape lifts her proud head far above 
all the surrounding land, and seems to look down upon 
them with a degree of contempt, and when standing on 



53 

one of its elevated peaks, with what delight and interest 
is the mind entertained. While thus standing, the eye 
takes in at a single glance the broad expanse of the At- 
lantic that lies stretched out before you ; and by turning 
to the south you can see the vast valley that lies between 
the two capes, Cape Mount and Cape Mesurado. In 
this valley are thousands of human beings who are yet to 
be brought to a Saviour^s love. In the month of March 
the prospect is truly animating ; here, for miles, you will 
see the smoke raising from the burning farms ; cloud 
after cloud will rise up and take its place among the 
mists of the atmosphere, while, perhaps, your ear will be 
saluted by many a song, arising from those whose habita- 
tion is at the foot of the mountain. After the eye and 
ear have been abundantly feasted by looking to the south, 
you turn to the north, and, at the foot of this same 
mount, you will see the place that was selected by the 
notorious Canot as the seat of his accursed traffic. Here 
his polluted soul would revel in all the evils of the hellish 
slave trade ; here the mind can contemplate the horror 
and suffering that attended this horrible iniquity. Im- 
agine, while gazing down the mountain's side, that you 
see his barracoon yet standing, and, within its precints, 
hundreds of human beings ready to be shipped off to be 
sold, and that too, to a people professing to be christians. 
Hear them scream as brother is torn from brother, and 
sister from sister, and all from their once happy home I 
Let the mind follow the large canoe as it conveys them 
out of the mouth of the river and over the bar. Look 
at ]\er as she is struggling witli the breakers as they roll 
to the shore — you tremble for the safety of the inmates ; 
perhaps there are hundreds in it, and all chained one to 
the otlier ! Ali, that fearful ])reaker, see how high it rides ! 

5* 



54 

can the canoe live through this ? All is suspense ; but 
on rolls the breaker until it meets the canoe. She is 
upset, — its poor victims struggle but struggle in vain, — 
they disappear to become food for the monsters of the 
deep. And this is but one of the atrocities of this 
practice. Within the walls of the barracoon hundreds 
are murdered — the weak, the old and the infirm, who will 
not command a price from the slave ship ; these, with 
many an infant, are sent to a premature grave. Oh, how 
can a wretch, such as Canot and hundreds of others, 
ever expect to find mercy at the hands of a just God ? 
But you may extend the view from where you stand far 
up the coast, and can see Sodama, in the place where the 
Gallinas empties its proud current into the ocean. This 
is Cape Mount ; it has proved itself to be the very best 
place in all the republic for emigrants to acclimate; they 
may pass through the change here almost imperceptibly. 
I would say to all coming to this delightful country, 
first stop at Cape Mount and spend one year, and then 
you will be prepared to go where your inclination may 
lead you, — you will have passed through the fever, or 
nearly so, by that time. 



ANSWER TO NESBIT'S BOOK. 

In reading the work put out by Mr. Wm. Nesbit, there 
is so much to claim attention that I scarcely know where 
to begin to answer his tirade and misrepresentation of 
the country that I claim as my home. But I will begin 
with his description of the face of the country. Page 
23, he says, the face is one magnificent swamp, and wishes 
to convey the idea that the whole country is inundated. 
Now, Mr. Nesbit knows very well this is not a true state- 
ment. I acknowledge that there are swamps on the 
coast as there are on our southern coasts, but I do not 
acknowledge that the coast of Liberia is any more sub- 
ject to these than the coasts of Louisiana or Florida ; 
but, to the contrary, the swamps do not extend near as 
far interior as the swamps do in the southern part of 
America. Those swamps do not extend more than four 
miles back, and after leaving the sea that distance, you 
leave all Mangroves and Dragon Bloods. Mr. Nesbit 
knew this, for he, with myself, travelled nearly one entire 
day in the vicinity of the New York settlement, in Li- 
beria, and we, in that day's travel, neither saw Mangrove 
nor Dragon Blood ; what is true concerning that location 
is true of all the country, after going about four miles 
inland. He says, that the land is very fertile but does 
not produce any timber. In this, Mr. Nesbit has made 
a wrong statement, for, instead of the country not pro- 
ducing any timber, I do most positively assert that in 
those districts, where the natives have not cut down or 



56 

destroyed the timber in making their farms, that the 
largest timber I ever saw grows in great abundance. I 
myself have measured a tree that measured one hundred 
and two feet in circumference. There are many more of 
this kind through the country. I do not mention this 
that the public should think that this is a fair sample of 
the forest timber, but I will say that the undestroyed for- 
est is larger in its growth than the forests of the United 
States. He speaks of the camwood, rosewood, &c. 
Camwood does not grow in any abundance near the coast, 
from the fact that all that was handy or near has long 
since been cut down and sent to market, and the natives 
did not know how to propagate it, but rosewood does 
grow in abundance ; also, wismore is as plenty as the oak 
or maple is in this country. 

Mr. Nesbit speaks of the Kong Mountains being seen 
from the coast. In this he is about as near right as in 
the most of his composition. The Kong Mountains are 
situated some two or three hundred miles in the interior; 
judge if they could be seen from the coast ! But the hills 
that he supposed to be the Kong Mountains are an ex- 
tensive range running along the coast as far as I have 
travelled, and are not more than from thirty to forty miles 
from the sea. I have been to them and have stood on 
them and viewed the country for many miles from them. 
He (Mr. Nesbit,) must have made up his opinion of Li- 
beria while his brain was excited by the fever, and while a 
hill seemed to him to be the great Kong Mountain. 

I am not able to state how far our country extends into 
the interior, but of one thing I am sure, that we can go 
as far inland as we wish. To prove this, Mr. Seys has 
formed a new settlement some fifty or sixty miles back 
from Monrovia. Whether tliis upper country belongs to 



57 

Liberia or not proves that we have access to it, which is 
all that we wish, and proves Mr. JSTesbit in the wrong. 

That there is not, nor never has been, five acres cleared 
by any one man, is too absurd for me to notice. Every 
body will contradict this that has been to Liberia ; I 
might name many that have five, ten, or twenty acres 
cleared and planted. 

I wish to call particular attention to the 9th chapter 
of Mr. Nesbit's book, where he desires to make the 
impression that when once in Liberia you are forever 
shut up, and all possibility of getting away is cut off. 
This is untrue, and a libel upon our laws and our free in- 
stitutions. That we have a law regulating passports is 
true, and what nation that has it not ? He says that all 
ship masters, &c., are forbidden to take away any one 
without a passport — this is true — but, what does all this 
amount to ? Simply this, to prevent fraud from being 
practised by those wishing to come away. Nesbit says, 
that if any one chooses to object to an applicant getting 
a passport it cannot be had ; but he does not tell us on 
what conditions those objections could be made effectual. 
Now, the truth is, that we have but one law on this mat- 
ter and that is, that any individual wishing to leave Li- 
beria must be free from debt, and if this is the case there 
is no one in all Africa that could prevent his passport, or 
his coming away ; but if, on the other hand, he owes his 
neighbor, and is unwilling to pay it before going, the 
creditor can enter a protest against his getting a passport. 
This is the whole of the affair. If Mr. Nesbit did lie 
and act the deceiver with General Lewis — there was not 
the least occasion for it ; but that he did lie and deceive 
his friends and partners in business is most true. For 
the purpose of procuring means to bring him'^home, he 



58 

told his friends that he would be back in the fall, and that 
he would bring out some goods with him. On the strength 
of this assertion the company loaned Mr. Nesbit one 
hundred dollars, which he has not returned ; so his object 
can be seen for lying himself out of the country. 

Mr. Nesbit attacks Mr. President Roberts. I am not 
disposed to fight his battles, but I do say that he has 
attacked him most unmanly. In my opinion, and not 
mine alone, the world has but few greater men than 
Joseph J. RohertSj and he is not only great but he is as 
good as he is great. He would spurn to do an act such 
as Nesbit charges him with ; but the world knows the 
man, and I am certain that but few thinks the less of him 
on account of any thing that is said of him in Nesbit's 
work. 

He speaks of beasts of prey, reptiles, &c. We have 
a variety of these things, but Mr. Nesbit puts the worst 
construction on this as he does on every thing else. Now, 
that the ^' driver" is so much of a monster as he would 
have everybody to fear is certainly not true. They would 
indeed be fearful if we would lie down and have our 
hands and feet tied, but we can keep out of the way of 
the driver as well as any thing else that is hurtful. As 
for serpents we have them, but not in the number that one 
would be led to suppose from the reading of Nesbit^s 
book. I can say that during all the time that I spent in 
Liberia, which is nearly a year for every month that Mr. 
Nesbit did, I have not seen more snakes than I would 
have seen if I had remained in Johnstown. Thus he ex- 
aggerates the truth and makes it horrifying to the timid 
and unsuspecting. 

Again, he says, that we have slavery in Liberia. Now 
I do most solemnly declare that Nesbit lied in making 



59 

this assertion. Upon the contrary, our laws make it a 
criminal act for any Liberian to receive a native in any 
way that he might be held as a slave. The Liberians 
cannot receive them as apprentices unless they take them 
before the proper court and have them bound as such, and 
every one, as soon as he or she is of man's or woman's 
age, can leave at will and go where they please. Nearly 
all have natives as helps in their families, and this is as it 
should be ; but I confess that black people are no better 
than white people, as many, when they have power, abuse 
it, and so it is with some in Liberia ; wicked persons 
there do abuse the native youths. But why does Mr. 
Nesbit condemn the whole country and accuse all as slave 
holders, because a few abuse their power ? There is no 
fairness in the man, but he seems willing to say or do any 
thing to carry his point. 

Mr. Nesbit next attacks the Missionaries, and wishes 
the world to look upon them as a set of swindlers, traders, 
and liars ; he also represents them as rumsellers. Now 
I think it hardly necessary to notice this, as I feel assured 
that there are none who believe these assertions, unless 
it is some one who has no more soul than what he (Nes- 
bit,) has, and if this is all the impression he has made it 
is scarcely worth answering. 

He further says that the Missionaries have done noth- 
ing. I am free to admit that they have not done as much 
as they or their friends would like them to have done. But 
why did not Mr. Nesbit give the true cause why there was 
not more done amongst the natives ? I do not pretend to 
say that the Ministers in Africa are a better set of men 
than preachers are in other lands, but I will say that they 
will compare favorably with any other part of the world 
for uprightness of deportment, zeal and piety ; but the 



60 

real cause why there seems to be but little doing amongst 
the natives of Africa is, that they are, perhaps, of all 
other people, the most superstitious. They have their 
religious rites unto which they adhere with the utmost 
tenacity. It is not only a wicked heart against which 
we have to contend, as Misssionaries, but all the practices 
and inventions that wicked men could devise for thousands 
of years. The Devil Bush is one of these things against 
which the Missionary has to contend ; their system of 
gree-grees is another — polygamy is another. ]^o w if Mr. 
Nesbit had known any thing about these things he would 
have came to the same conclusion that I have come to, 
viz : that the Missionaries have done wonders. 

When he (Nesbit) says that there are not twenty na- 
tives who are civilized and converted in all the republic, 
he forgot the settlement of New Georgia, where there are 
over fifty civilized natives in that one place. I am very 
sure, if it were possible for me to pass round and take 
account of all in the republic, I should find many more — 
yes, more than twenty, more than forty. In my charge 
of last year I left five native members, who were as good 
members as any other, but the truth is, that after the na- 
tive is civilized he becomes a Liberian, and a stranger 
does not know him from the rest of the Liberian citizens, 
unless personally acquainted. 

As regards rum-selling amongst the Missionaries, I do 
not know of any thing of the kind, and I question very 
much if Mr. Nesbit did, but to the contrary I do know 
that the body to which I belong, are, to a man, opposed 
to it, and if a brother would use to excess or advocate 
the traffic of rum amongst us, he would be hissed out of 
Conference. I further believe that all the other denomi- 
nations are equally strict in this matter. 



61 

There are men of the highest attainments engaged in 
Missionary operations. I will name a few and let the 
world judge if these men could be guilty of the base con- 
duct that Nesbit has ascribed to them : Bishop Payne, 
Rev. Scott, and Rev. Hoffman, of the Protestant Epis- 
copal Church; Rev. D. A. Wilson, Rev. E. T. Wil- 
• liams, of the Presbyterian, and Rev. J. W. Home, and 
others, of the M. E. Church. These are all white men 
who had no interest in going to Africa but that of pro- 
moting their Master^s'cause, — yet these have to be classed 
in Nesbit's book as traders and rum-sellers. 

As for the palm oil story I shall not say any thing, as 
I do not know about the measure used by the merchants. 
I think that there would be profit enough on this article 
without resorting to any thing of this kind. Mr. Nesbit 
could not see where the money was to be made, although 
he bought his goods at Monrovia and took them to Mar- 
shall and there sold them at one hundred per cent, and 
yet he cannot see how there was any thing to be made on 
buying palm oil — quite short-sighted I 

Although Mr. Nesbit prophesies the speedy downfall 
of our little republic, she has not yet fallen, nor is 
there any likelihood that she will, for she is steadily ad- 
vancing. He says this will occur when emigration shall 
stop, but when is that to be ? It does not look much 
like stopping as yet, when there are, every six months, 
more emigrants offered than can be taken over. Perhaps 
he supposed that the publication of his pamphlet would 
stop it at once, but this is only to some extent in Penn- 
sylvania ; however, I hope that, even in this part of the 
world, the people may see right sometimes, and move to. 
Liberia, there to help to build up a great nation. 

Concerning native customs and manners, in chapter 16, 

6 



62 

I think that everybody will allow me to know more than 
Mr. IS"., as his stay was only four months, and a portion 
of that time he was sick, and I was there nearly four years, 
and have been more or less amongst them while in Africa. 
Their customs are very different from those of the Libe- 
rians ; they have their own laws — where their laws do 
not conflict with ours — and I ask is this strange ? surely 
not. Did not the United States allow the Indians the 
same, and why does not Mr. Nesbit rally out against 
them for this folly, if folly it be ? No, this is not his ob- 
ject, he wishes to make Liberia look small and contempti- 
ble, but I think that he has failed in this. He says that 
it is a common thing to see the natives naked. Now, I 
question whether he ever saw a grown native entirely 
naked — if he has he saw more than ever I did; al- 
though it is quite common, when you visit their villages, 
to see their children, up to the age of ten or twelve years, 
running naked, but the men and women are as suscepti- 
ble of shame as Mr. N. of any other person. How Mr. 
N. saw so much more than any other person that ever 
was in Africa I cannot conceive. He is not the first that 
got away from that country, and I suppose others have 
been as truthful, and yet, strange to say, he saw more, 
heard more, and learned more than any other one man. 
Can it be that he is the only honest man that ever came 
from Liberia ? . 

Mr. Nesbit should have taken more pains to have in- 
formed himself of the natives and the Liberians, before 
writing and giving to the world for truth that which he 
knew nothing about. He asserts that such of the natives 
as are guilty of making a witch must die. This was 
once the law : but it is not practised now in or about Li- 
beria. Our influence has put this abominable practice 



63 

down, and if it is done at all it must be done very se- 
cretly. Instead of the natives having no regard for our 
laws, they have the utmost respect and fear of offending 
us, and are also very careful to avoid all appearance of 
disobedience. It is a frequent occurrence for them to 
refer their matters of dispute to our magistrates, and feel 
that whatever may be the decision that it is right, and 
they are satisfied. 

I believe that the coloured portion of the Missionaries 
are as far in the advance as the colored preachers in 
America. I do know that the Liberian Methodist 
Conference is, as a body, far ahead of any colored Confer- 
ence in the United States ; they will compare favorably 
with any white Conference. We have men of talent : we 
have a Burns, Payne, Thompson, Matthews, Grosse, 
Roberts, Wilson, Tyler, and A. D. Williams. Many 
of these are ornaments to Liberia, and would be stars 
anywhere, where there is no prejudice to keep them 
down. I should not omit the good and holy father 
CoKER, who took his life in his hands and came out from 
Baltimore some seven years ago. These are men of 
honor and would scorn a mean act sooner than he who 
tries to injure them. 

As it regards the 14th chapter, it is something that will 
do no harm and I shall not consume time to give it much 
notice. I would, however, say that the whole affair is an 
attempt at ridicule, and has but little truth in it. As for 
Commodores, Lieutenants, Boatswains, these are titles 
altogether unknown in relation to the Liberian govern- 
ment Schooner Lark. It has its captain, mates and 
purser, and perhaps two or three midshipmen. I assert 
that our military operations are conducted with as much 
propriety as any other people, although we may not know 



64: 

much about military tactics. Our companies' opera- 
tions have been witnessed by naval officers both of the 
British and the American squadron, and they have uni- 
versally been praised for their skill as soldiers. I am 
quite certain that those natives, who have been hostile, 
have long since came to the conclusion that the Liberians 
understood their business ; and if Mr. Nesbit was to try 
their skill I am inclined to believe that he too would come 
to the same conclusion. 

Chapter 15. I here assert and am not afraid of any 
successful contradiction, that neither the English nor the 
American squadron has any influence to prevent the na- 
tives from coming down upon us if they were so disposed ; 
but they know to their sorrow the strength of the Libe- 
rian arms. We have nothing to fear from any internal 
enemy. The natives are divided into tribes, and these 
tribes into factions, and it is as impossible for them to 
concentrate their forces against us as it was for Mr. Nes- 
bit to tell the truth concerning us. Their local interests 
forbid this. I am not vain enough to suppose that if 
the whole native force of Liberia could be brought to 
bear against it at once, that it could stand successfully 
the attack, for it is estimated that they number three hun- 
dred thousand, while that of Liberia is not over twelve 
thousand. But this never can be — circumstances forbid 
it, and while one or two tribes may combine against us, 
we, on the other hand, can obtain other natives to assist 
us. The history of the world goes to prove this usage 
and our history confirms it. As far as the squadrons are 
concerned, we could live very well without them, although 
we feel thankful to the governments for them, and shall 
ever treat their officers as the representatives of the 
greatest nations on earth. 



m 

I am now done with Mr. Nesbit, and I leave the 
public to judge who has had the best chance to know the 
truth in the matter — he in four months or myself in four 
years. As to veracity, I claim at least to be as good as 
he, and think that when I was a citizen of this State I 
stood as fair. Unless there is something in the climate of 
Liberia that degenerates the character of every one that 
goes there, I yet would be considered truthful. Now the 
facts in the case as it regards Mr. ISTesbit is about this : 
He went to Liberia at an expense, perhaps, of some two 
or three hundred dollars, and did not like the country, for 
which I did not, nor do I yet, blame him. But why, if 
he did not like it, did he not come away with honor and 
not misrepresent every thing that he saw ? Well, he was 
out of pocket and wished to make it good, and conferring 
with M. R. Delany, a most inveterate hater of coloni- 
zation and all its doings, was advised to publish this book, 
and, of course, what Mr. Nesbit did not think of Mr. 
Delany could. This thing was thus concocted and set 
afloat for the purpose of making Mr. Nesbit's pocket 
whole again. 

I find by travelling in this State and conversing with 
some of the best colored men in it, that the statements 
of Mr. N. are not believed as fully as they once were. A 
number of the citizens of Pittsburg and Allegheny assured 
me that they believed that Mr. Nesbit told many things 
that were not truthful, and when I explained matters to 
them as they really are, they seemed to be satisfied. All 
I would ask would be for any good man from Pennsylva- 
nia to go to Liberia and spend one year, and come back, 
and I believe that he would corroborate my statements in 
every particular, and condemn that of Nesbit's in many 
instances. 



66 

I give to the world this brief sketch, and have only 
further to say that all who read it may depend on it for 
truth ; although it is plain and simple, yet it may be relied 
on by all, for it is not my object to deceive I have no 
interest in this land — Liberia is my home and I expect to 
end my days in it. I cannot think that it is for the best 
interests of Liberia to misrepresent things or to give to 
them false colors. The world knows us and knows from 
whence we came. The people of this country have sense 
enough to know how much to expect from us in the short 
time we have been in existence. No one, who has the 
right use of his reason, expects that we should be now as 
far advanced as the United States. We have been an 
independent government but ten years and have had 
everything to contend against, yet, with all the difficul- 
ties, we have honorably sustained ourselves, and are grow- 
ing into importance as fast as any reasonable man could 
expect. It never was expected by the friends of Liberia 
that it would grow into manhood in a day or a year ; but 
her growth has been steady and sure, with as little mor- 
tality as any other country ever was settled with. 



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